Edith Carnley, an associate professor in the FAMU Theatre Department, and resident costume designer for the Essential Theatre, recently shed light on the intricate process of bringing a theatrical production to life. Her work on the Essential Theatre’s recent play, The Confederates by Tony-nominated playwright Dominique Morisseau, exemplified the fusion of creativity and historical resonance required to tell powerful stories onstage.
The Confederates is a bold satire that intertwines the lives of two Black women separated by over a century: Sara, an enslaved rebel turned Union spy during the Civil War era, and Sandra, a modern-day tenured professor navigating institutional racism at a private university. The play draws parallels between their struggles, exposing the enduring grip of racial and gender bias in American education.
Carnley emphasized the challenges of merging two distinct worlds—the “old Kremlin” (a historical antebellum setting) and the modern era—through costume design. “We needed the visual elements to mirror each other, blending colors, textures, and silhouettes,” she explained. “For instance, skirts from both time periods were styled to echo one another, while hair and accessories subtly bridged the gap between timelines.”
Research, she noted, was foundational. “You start by understanding the characters’ worlds—their histories, motivations, and environments. The goal was to create designs that feel authentic yet adaptable, especially for quick transitions in a moving production.”
The FAMU Theatre’s educational mission also played a central role. Students contributed to every aspect of the play, from stage management and lighting to costuming and acting. “This isn’t just about putting on a show,” Carnley said. “It’s about training the next generation of theatre professionals to handle all facets of production, both onstage and behind the scenes.”
Morisseau’s script, praised for its sharp wit and emotional depth, provided fertile ground for creative collaboration. Carnley’s designs underscored the play’s themes, using visual contrasts to highlight the characters’ shared battles against systemic oppression.
Carnley goal with the costuming for this production was to have the audience leave with a deeper understanding of history’s ethos. “Theatre isn’t just entertainment—it’s a mirror,” she said. “When we see how far we haven’t come, that’s when real dialogue begins.”